Rochester

Rochester sits on the southern shore of Lake Ontario in western New York, and the Genesee River runs north through the middle of the city on its way to the lake. It grew up around the river and later around the Erie Canal, and it is still a city of makers, universities and museums. Photography and music shaped its character, and you see it in the galleries and concert halls. The Flower City nickname comes from its nurseries and its parks, and the lilacs bloom each spring. The center is compact, the neighborhoods are leafy and a visit feels relaxed and unhurried.

Start at High Falls, where the Genesee drops over a ledge right beside downtown. The George Eastman Museum is the big draw for anyone who likes photography and film, and The Strong National Museum of Play suits families and the young at heart. The Memorial Art Gallery holds a wide collection and has a quiet garden. The Susan B. Anthony House tells the story of the woman's rights leader who lived in the city. Highland Park is a fine place to walk, and Ontario Beach Park in Charlotte brings the lake into the visit. Seabreeze Amusement Park sits on the shore too.

Rochester eats well. The Rochester Public Market is a good place to graze on Saturdays, and the city is known for the garbage plate, a pile of meat, potatoes and macaroni salad that locals defend with feeling. Park Avenue and the South Wedge have cafes, small restaurants and bars that stay busy into the evening. The Eastman School of Music and the local clubs keep live music on the calendar throughout the year. Craft breweries and wine bars are easy to find, and the Finger Lakes wine region lies just south. Nights are friendly and casual.

Downtown is the simplest base, with hotels close to the river, the theatres and the East End restaurants. Park Avenue suits travelers who like cafes and a neighborhood feel. Corn Hill sits beside the river and has historic houses and a calm mood. Chain hotels cluster by the airport and the Thruway for easy arrival by car. The RTS bus network covers the main routes, but a car is the easy way to reach the lake and the wider region. Parking is straightforward in most areas. Rochester Station on the Amtrak line is a short ride from the center, and Greater Rochester International Airport lies southwest of the city.

Late spring through early autumn is the best time to visit. May brings lilacs and festivals, summer is warm with long evenings by the lake, and September and October color the parks and the vineyards. Winters are cold and snowy, with lake effect clouds and plenty of snow, although the museums make that a decent season for a short stay. Spring is slow and damp. Two days is enough for High Falls, the major museums and a meal on Park Avenue. A third day lets you reach the lakeshore, walk the canal path or begin a Finger Lakes loop.

Rochester sits on the New York State Thruway and the Amtrak line between Buffalo and Syracuse, which makes it an easy overnight on the long run across the state. Niagara Falls lies to the west, a good day trip from here, and Buffalo is beyond it. The Finger Lakes begin south of the city, with Canandaigua Lake the nearest and Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen farther on. Letchworth State Park, a deep gorge on the Genesee, is also within reach. Syracuse and the Adirondacks open up to the east, and Toronto is around the lake to the northwest.