Columbia

Columbia is the capital of South Carolina, set in the middle of the state where the Broad and Saluda Rivers join to form the Congaree. It was planned as a capital city, and the broad streets and the State House at the center still show it. The University of South Carolina fills a large part of downtown with students, and state government keeps the weekdays busy. The city is warm and unhurried, with a Southern pace and a growing food and music scene. It is not a resort, and it is not trying to be one. Most visitors come for the capital, a football weekend, the zoo or the swamp forest just outside town.

Start at the South Carolina State House, with its tall dome and grounds full of monuments. The Columbia Museum of Art is a good indoor stop, and the South Carolina State Museum covers science, history and art in an old textile mill. The Robert Mills House is a restored historic home near the university. Riverbanks Zoo and Garden sits on the Saluda River and suits families. Congaree National Park, a short drive southeast, protects a rare old forest on a river floodplain, with a boardwalk and quiet paddling. The Three Rivers Greenway and Riverfront Park give walkers and cyclists a path along the water, and Lake Murray lies northwest of the city.

Columbia's food leans Southern, with fried chicken, shrimp and grits, and South Carolina's mustard-based barbecue sauce on pork. The Congaree Vista, near downtown, has the densest cluster of restaurants, breweries and cocktail bars, many in old warehouses. Five Points, beside the university, is the student district, with bars, pizza spots and late nights. On Saturdays, the Soda City Market fills Main Street with food stalls, coffee and local makers. Music Farm and the Township Auditorium book touring bands, and the Koger Center hosts theatre and dance. On a home football weekend, the whole city dresses in garnet and black and the bars fill early.

The Vista and Main Street are the best bases for a first visit, since the restaurants, the museums and the State House are close together and many are walkable. Five Points suits travelers who want to be near the university and the evening spots. Shandon and Rosewood are leafy neighborhoods with local cafes and good places to eat. Chain hotels cluster near the interstates and the airport, which is across the river in West Columbia and Cayce. The Comet runs local buses, but the sights are spread out, so a car is the practical choice. Parking is easy in most places, though it tightens near the stadium on game weekends.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. Spring brings warm days and blooming trees, and autumn is dry, clear and full of football energy. The South Carolina State Fair arrives in October. Summers are very hot and humid, which is why the city sometimes calls itself famously hot, so plan outdoor time for early morning or evening. Winters are mild, with a few cold snaps. Two days covers the State House, the museums, the Vista and one meal at a barbecue place. A third day adds Congaree National Park or the zoo, and a fourth leaves time for Lake Murray or a slow Saturday market.

Columbia sits where Interstates 20, 26 and 77 meet, so it works as a hub in the Carolinas. Interstate 26 runs southeast to Charleston and northwest toward Greenville and the Blue Ridge foothills. Interstate 77 leads north to Charlotte, and Interstate 20 goes west to Atlanta and east toward Florence and the coast. Augusta, Georgia is an easy drive southwest. Amtrak serves the city, and the airport has flights to major hubs. A night here pairs well with Charleston on the coast, or with a drive between Atlanta and the Atlantic beaches.