Charlottetown

Charlottetown is the capital of Prince Edward Island, a small harbour city on the south shore where the Hillsborough River meets the Northumberland Strait. It is known as the birthplace of Confederation, because the leaders who planned a new country first met here. That history is easy to feel on the older streets, where low brick and wooden buildings stand close together near the water. The city is compact and friendly, with the feel of a large town more than a big city. Most visitors come for the island's beaches and farmland, and they find that the capital makes a calm and comfortable base for the trip.

Province House National Historic Site is where the Charlottetown Conference took place, and it still holds the provincial legislature. Nearby, the Confederation Centre of the Arts is a gallery and theatre in the middle of downtown. Great George Street runs down to the harbour past St. Dunstan's Basilica, whose twin spires rise above the roofs. Victoria Row is a pedestrian block of restored brick buildings with patios, and Peake's Quay is the main waterfront stop for boat tours and ice cream. Victoria Park has a boardwalk along the water and plenty of green space. Beaconsfield Historic House is a Victorian mansion that opens to visitors in the warmer months.

Seafood is the reason to eat well here. Island mussels, oysters and lobster appear on most menus, and a lobster roll or a bowl of chowder is an easy lunch near the water. Potatoes, strawberries and Island beef also turn up often. The Charlottetown Farmers' Market is a good place for baking, coffee and prepared food. Gahan House is a well known brewpub on Sydney Street, and other bars pour local beer and spirits. In summer, live music spills out of pubs along Victoria Row and the streets nearby. Evenings are relaxed rather than loud, and most places sit a short walk from each other. Book ahead for dinner in July and August.

Downtown is the natural base, with inns, hotels and restaurants within a few blocks of the harbour. Many older homes have become small inns and bed and breakfasts, which suit couples and anyone after a quiet stay. Chain hotels and motels line the main roads at the edge of the city, which is easier for drivers and has plenty of parking. T3 Transit runs local buses, but the beaches and most island sights lie out of town, so most visitors bring or rent a car. The centre is flat and easy to walk, and the Confederation Trail suits cycling. Charlottetown Airport is a short drive north of downtown. Maritime Bus links the city to the mainland. There is no passenger rail.

Summer is the main season. Days are long, the sea is at its warmest and everything is open, from the theatre to the beach shacks. July and August are the busiest months, and rooms fill early. June and September are calmer, with mild weather and fewer crowds, and early autumn brings strong colour and harvest food events. Spring is slow, cool and often damp, and some seasonal attractions stay closed until late in the season. Winter is cold and snowy, and the island is quiet. Two days is enough for the city itself. Most travellers stay three or four nights and use Charlottetown as a base for day trips to the north shore, the south shore and the east of the island.

Charlottetown sits near the middle of the island, and a car opens up everything. Route 1, the Trans-Canada Highway, leads west toward the Confederation Bridge at Borden-Carleton, the usual way to arrive by road from New Brunswick. East of the city it runs toward Wood Islands, where a seasonal ferry crosses to Nova Scotia, so check the operator's current schedule before planning around it. Roads north lead to Cavendish and Prince Edward Island National Park, home to Green Gables Heritage Place, a short drive from the capital. Together these make Charlottetown an easy anchor for a loop that takes in New Brunswick, the island and the Nova Scotia shore.